Since I had so much fun traveling solo to Chocolate Hills, I decided to travel alone once more the following day. Originally, I planned to go to Anda Beach but commuting from Tagbilaran to Anda takes 4 hours! I only had an afternoon to enjoy another moment of solitude and I thought I’d rather spend more time at the beach than on the road.
So I ditched Anda Beach on the last minute and opted to go to Alona Beach instead.
Only 30 minutes away from Tagbilaran, Alona Beach is a tropical getaway in Panglao Island with a gorgeous stretch of white sand, swaying palm trees and pristine azure waters.
Alona Beach has one of the best diving spots in the Philippines and is a popular destination for divers from different parts of the globe.
There are a variety of hotels, restaurants, cafes, bars, travel agencies and specialty shops to choose from within or near its vicinity.
Alona Beach carries a sleepy beach vibe so its nightlife is fairly quiet than that of Boracay and Cebu.
Laidback beats are played open air by the shore – making it an awesome place to just chill out in the evening.
Alona Beach is Boracay’s easygoing cousin without the overwhelming number of vendors, rowdy crowds and hyper-commercialism. It is a serene vacation spot with a lively nightlife scene – offering the best of both worlds!
To get there, I took a tricycle from JJ’s Seafood Village to Panglao Island which cost me a whopping 500 PHP.
Thankfully, I was able to bargain with the driver later on to make that a round trip fare.
Please don’t judge me. Back then, I didn’t know better.
The cheaper way to get to there is to take a Tawala-bound jeepney at Dao Terminal. Although the trip will take about an hour, the fare would only be 25 PHP (but 50 PHP if you have a huge suitcase). A far cry from my overcharged tricycle fare.
TIME
Tricycle ride to Panglao Island – 30 minutes
*Jeepney ride to Panglao Island – 1 hour
EXPENSES Tricycle ride to and fro Panglao Island – 500 PHP
*Jeepney ride to Panglao Island – 25 PHP
*other option
Read about my budget hostel of choice in Panglao here
Bohol Travel Guide here
After walking my way down from the Chocolate Hills observation deck, I saw ManongJun, the habal-habal driver patiently waiting for me. I mounted myself on the back of his motorcycle and we proceeded downhill. I, then, suddenly remembered all the ATV rental shops we passed by earlier. Considering what little money I had with me, I wasn’t so sure whether I should take an ATV tour or not… After having a long mental debate with myself, I decided to go for it. I had no idea when I can be in Bohol again and I haven’t been on an ATV before. Plus, money can be earned back anyway. #yolo
So I told Manong Jun to wait for me one more time as I take an ATV tour at Chocolate Hills. Thankfully, he obliged.
We then made a stop at one of the ATV rental shops. I just signed a paper, paid some fees and off I went!
No worries if you don’t know how to drive. The ATV is automatic so driving experience is not required and instructions will be given to those who don’t know how to operate it.
The whole tour took about an hour. It was an impulsive decision I did not once regret. My guide was such a professional. He guided me through the woods and meandering trodden paths till we got close to the base of Chocolate Hills. He also took photos and videos of my solitary adventure! I had such a blast!
TIPS:
1. Do not wear white.
2. Do not wear long bottom garments.
3. Slow down when you see puddles.
I was not able to do all of the above since I did not foresee any mud splashing action to happen. So take it from me.
The ATV tour was the highlight of my Chocolate Hills excursion. It’s definitely something that shouldn’t be missed when in Bohol!
DURATION
ATV tour – 1 hour
EXPENSES
ATV rental and miscellaneous fees – 500 PHP
Read about my solo trip to Chocolate Hills here
My Bohol Travel Guide here
On the first week of November, my boyfriend attended a videography workshop in Bohol with some of the country’s biggest names in the wedding film industry. While my boyfriend was busy in Dao Diamond Hotel (where the workshop was held), I didn’t want to just sulk in our hotel room and waste 2 glorious days away doing nothing. So I thought it was about time to do something I’ve never done before… TRAVEL SOLO. Just the thought of it was pretty daunting: a young woman, strapped for cash, with poor navigational skills is about to embark on her first independent trip. Obviously, I was both excited and frightened.
Although I’ve already seen the Chocolate Hills more than a decade ago with my family in a guided group tour, I just wanted to see if I can make it there completely on my own.
My trip to the famous Chocolate Hills started with a tricycle ride from JJ’s Seafood Village to Dao Terminal. The ride was about 15 minutes tops.
Upon my arrival at Dao Terminal around 1:30 PM, I asked around which bus I should take. I was told to catch the bus that goes to Carmen and just ask to be dropped off along the highway where the Chocolate Hills would be located.
I climbed inside a non-air-conditioned Citi Transport bus, seated myself at the back and waited about 30 minutes for departure.
TRIVIA: It’s a norm in the Philippines that ambulant vendors sell bottled drinks and pre-packed goods to passengers before the bus takes off.
Throughout the entire ride, I persistently asked the passengers beside me if I was getting any closer and kept reminding the bus conductor about my stop.
It was already around 4 in the afternoon when I was finally dropped off along the highway. From there, I took a habal-habal and was on my way to the observation deck of Chocolate Hills. But halfway there we made a quick stop to pay for the entrance fee.
The habal-habal driver dropped me off at the base of a stairway leading to the observation deck. I made an arrangement with the driver to wait for me as I would not be taking a lot of my time. One must overcome over 200 steps before finally seeing the Chocolate Hills. Luckily for me, the climb up wasn’t as exhausting as I remember it to be (must be all the trekking I’ve done lately).
Behold, the iconic Chocolate Hills! A geological wonder that turns dark brown during the dry season. Composed of over 1000 hills, legend has it that these hills were formed when a giant named Arogo mourned over the death of Aloya, a mere mortal, who he loved dearly. As his tears fell into the ground, they turned into hills – a symbol of his lasting love.
Yes, the climb was absolutely worth it. The view was stunning. But to me, it was more than just the view. It was a symbolic climb of triumph – triumph over fear of uncertainty and fear itself.
TIME Tricyle ride to Dao Terminal – 15 minutes Bus ride to Carmen – 2 hours Habal-habal ride to Chocolate Hills Observation Deck – 5 minutes
EXPENSES Tricycle ride to JJ’s Seafood Village to Dao Terminal – 15 PHP Bus ride to Dao Terminal to Carmen – 60 PHP Habal-habal from Highway to Chocolate Hills and back – 100 PHP Entrance fee for Chocolate Hills – 50 PHP
Read about my ATV ride experience here My Bohol Travel Guide here
Although I am fully aware that getting organized group tours is the most efficient and convenient way to travel, I still prefer doing it the hard way by working on my own itinerary.
Here are 5 reasons why I think it’s better to NOT to take group tours:
YOU ARE THE BOSS OF YOUR OWN ADVENTURE
Having full control of what you want to see, eat and do allows you to explore and experience things at your own pace without sticking to a strict, inflexible schedule.
YOU CAN HAVE AN AUTHENTIC TRAVEL EXPERIENCE
Taking charge of your own adventure can be the best way to explore and learn more about the destination, its people and their culture. Immerse yourself by talking to locals, getting acquainted with their native tongue, eating traditional and street delicacies, joining festivities, taking public transportation, and visiting less-traveled sights.
YOU CAN MEET INTERESTING PEOPLE ALONG THE WAY
Not taking a group tour means that you don’t have to be stuck with the same crowd for the entire duration of the trip. You have the freedom to interact with like-minded travelers on transit or meet up with members from a global travel community.
YOU CAN CHOOSE YOUR COMPANIONS
Traveling is more than just the journey; it’s about making memories as well. So choose your companions wisely because they can make or break your travel experience. Remember, you will be choosing activities, sharing responsibilities, working on a budget, and spending a LOT of time together. Compatibility is everything.
YOU BECOME MORE CULTURALLY-SENSITIVE
Without the safety net of a group tour, you become more attuned with your surroundings and the people around you. The more you discover and learn about a certain place on your own, the more you become open-minded, appreciative and respectful of its people and their culture.
Images are taken from Google Images and are believed to be in the public domain. No copyright infringement intended. Credit is given where it is due.
There are dozens upon dozens of hotels and resorts to choose from in Bohol – particularly in Tagbilaran and Panglao. However, most of these are catered to affluent tourists and if you’re a glampacker like I am, finding a place to stay that is comfortable yet affordable at the same time can be a trying task. But luckily, while I was perusing the bowels of the Internet, I found Moon Fools Hostel.
Moon Fools Hostel is a newly-opened bed and breakfast located in Brgy. Tawala, Panglao Island. Only a walk away from Alona Beach, it is surrounded by restaurants, convenience stores, travel agencies, rental shops and many more.
This industrially themed hostel prides itself as a clean, friendly budget hostel that is committed to making conscious efforts to be eco-friendly.
They also take pride in having supported homegrown artists by commissioning one-of-a-kind handcrafted wooden key chains.
Moon Fools Hostel has 2 dorm rooms, 3 matchbox rooms and 2 private rooms all with great air conditioning and free access to WiFi.
TIP:
Book your accommodation in advance. Since the number of rooms is limited, they are usually fully booked.
I stayed in one of their dorm rooms for only 400/night (introductory price) and was offered a complimentary continental breakfast.
They have gender-segregated communal shower rooms and lavatories too.
Currently, some facilities are unavailable such as hot shower, public kitchen and lounge area. Other rooms were unavailable as well when I was there since they are still undergoing minor renovations. I honestly was a little disappointed when I realized that the photos on their website are only artistically rendered images. But it does look very promising.
It is also worth mentioning that Moon Fools Hostel sits right above a bar that blasts loud music until 2 in the morning so expect a rough night if you’re an early sleeper.
EDIT: They just installed soundproof windows!
That being said, Moon Fools Hostel is heaven sent for young travelers on a budget. The place is clean, safe and comfortable. With a very strategic location at a competitive price, I’ll surely go back there when in Bohol.
Some images are taken from the official website of Moon Fools Hostel and are believed to be in the public domain. No copyright infringement intended. Credit is given where it is due.
Bohol is an island province of the Philippines that is situated in the Central Visayas region and is home to several historical churches, natural wonders, splendid beaches and the buggy-eyed tarsiers.
HOW TO GET THERE BY AIR
Take a direct flight from Manila, Cebu or Davao to Tagbilaran with Cebu Pacific, Philippine Airlines or AirAsia. You can check the flight schedules here. Please note that the schedules are subject to change without prior notice.
WHERE TO STAY There are numerous hotels and resorts to choose from in Bohol – particularly in Tagbilaran and Panglao. However, most of them cater to affluent tourists and the options for backpackers and “glampackers” are very limited.
Luckily, I found a good place for those of us traveling on a tight budget. My personal recommendation would be Moon Fools Hostel. You can read about it here.
There are many easy-to-use and secure websites that can help you choose your accommodation based on your personal preferences and budget.
Agoda
I’ve booked hotels through Agoda a couple of times and I love it. They have a great network of hotels to choose from at competitive prices.
AirBNB
I’ve also booked through AirBNB and this is a personal favorite. AirBNB offers the most unique travel experiences that can perfectly suit your budget and needs.
Booking, Trivago & Hostelworld I personally haven’t used Booking, Trivago, and Hostelworld before but they also have good deals and a wide selection of hotels to choose from.
WHAT TO SEE AND DO
There are a number of travel agencies in Bohol that offer affordable package tours and I’ve seen a lot of them scattered in Panglao. Getting package tours is the best way to enjoy Bohol in the most efficient way possible. However, I love to make my own itinerary and be the boss of my own adventure. So here are my must-see’s and must-do’s in no particular order:
Ride an ATV to Chocolate Hills
Bike on a zipline at Chocolate Hills Adventure Park
Firefly watching under Loay Bridge
Cruise along Loboc River
Spelunking in Danao
Visit historical churches and sites
Scuba diving at Balicasag Island
Rent a motorcyle to get around Bohol Eat fresh, raw sea urchin at Alona Beach
WHERE TO EAT To all my foodie readers, here are my top picks:
Shortly, Ate She was hacking some coconuts for us to replace our lost electrolytes.
And out of nowhere, heavy drops suddenly pelted down from the sky, forcing us to huddle beneath banana trees that provided little shelter from the rain.
What we thought was going to be an effortless downhill hike turned out to be a challenging one because of the heavy downpour.
We really took our time going down the slippery slope and avoided the muddy tracks as much as possible.
In tricky areas, some were forced to go down on all fours…
some five – if you count the butt! In a situation such as this, a trekking pole would definitely come in handy. But if that’s unavailable, just improvise! Pick up any sturdy wooden stick and you’re good to go!
As we were retracing our steps, we saw one of the streams that we spotted earlier. We then took turns washing ourselves to rid of all the dirt, mud and bat droppings covering our bodies. It felt like such a treat!
The intermittent rain stopped for a while and we found ourselves back at the grassy field once again. All of us picked our own spot to sit and relax for a much-needed break.
Someone looks like he found the best spot. Hehe 🙂
Before going to Hindang Falls, we had marang for a quick snack. If you haven’t heard of it before, this fruit is native to the southern part of the Philippines and is closely related to jackfruit.
The walk to the first and second tier of Hindang Falls was unbelievably short and easy.
I couldn’t say the same thing for the third tier, however.
Some opted to remain at this spot and enjoyed the view. But some (I, myself included), dared to take on the challenge.
With no safety gear, not even a harness, we climbed up a very steep, slippery slope where very few people dared to go even on a good day.
We grabbed and gripped on to whatever we can just to see the sequestered tier. One false move and we may never see the light of day again. This climb is probably the riskiest thing I’ve done to date.
YEY! Finally… right in front of our eyes. The majestic third tier of Hindang Falls, one of Iligan’s hidden wonders, standing right behind a cloak of lush green foliage.
Its cool, refreshing waters give a good hydromassage to weary bodies.
For those of us who dared to do the death-defying stunt, the spectacular view and therapeutic shower was the best way to wrap up the entire adventure.
Here are my tips for a safe, fun and ethical trek to Hindang Falls:
1. Never go without a local as a guide.
2. Have a buddy system and never separate from your group.
3. Wearing of appropriate apparel is a must. Invest in proper trekking footwear. I cannot stress this enough.
4. Leave nothing but footprints and take nothing but photos. This is also worth mentioning again and again.
5. Bring proper equipment and wear safety gear. Don’t do what we did.
6. Assess your physical condition and climbing ability before going uphill especially for the third waterfall tier. It is for experienced trekkers and climbers only.
7. Check the weather forecast. Note that rain makes moderately easy treks difficult.
8. Give the guide a generous tip.
A quick shoutout to Manong Nick for being a patient, kind and generous guide. Look for him when in Hindang. He’s awesome!
We actually have a video of our Hindang adventure, check it out!
You can also read about our Hindang Falls Experience from these lovely people:
Bobby Timonera on MINDANEWS
Porsche on THEYANGONE
Yobz on AYOSAOI
It was towards the end of September that our trekking team once again organized an epic adventure somewhere in the hinterlands of Iligan. This time it was in Barangay Hindang where there lies a cave hidden in dense jungles and a less visited three tier waterfall which I will talk about in a different post.
Hindang is a long drive away from the city so we met with fellow adventure seekers before 6 in the morning in front of Shoppe24 Tibanga while Tito Bobby Timonera, barefoot runner extraordinaire and Elijah Dagaerag, experienced mountaineer were already on their way there on foot – that’s 14 kilometers from the highway!
It was about 7 A.M. when Mico Falame, mountain climbing pro arrived in his panoramic van with three of his friends.
Then off we went! We have a footage of the entire ride here.
Barangay Hindang is approximately 20 kilometers away from the city proper and is accessible by both private and public utility vehicles through Barangay Kiwalan and Kabacsanan. Granexport Manufacturing Corporation, simply known as Granex, is the landmark to look for. Should you choose to go there by jeepney or habal-habal, brace yourself for some uncomfortable, bumpy ride. Here is a map for directions on how to get there.
After a scenic hour and a half uphill drive through long winding roads (we got a little lost at some point), we finally made it at the Hindang proper and stopped at a basketball court. Tito Bobby and Elijah were already there waiting for us!
Upon our arrival, we went inside Delatado Store…
signed on their visitor log book, paid a fee of 25 pesos each…
and started walking to Mt. Pagangon (where the cave is located) from there.
The climb to Mt. Pagangon seemed a lot less challenging than our trek in Pugaan albeit it does require more stamina.
As we went uphill…
we passed through a grassy field…
a bamboo forest…
and a few streams.
There were a lot of interesting sights and sounds along the way that you only get to see and hear in nature. We all were our jovial selves…
up until this point. With our game faces on, we braved this side of the mountain and slowly made our way up the slope which has a vertical inclination of about 50 to 70 degrees.
Teamwork is essential for any trek to become successful.
And behind every successful trek are sweepers.
Sweepers are on the tail end of the trek and they make sure nothing and no one gets left behind. Elijah, who we fondly call Elai (pictured on the left), and Lope (right) were our designated sweepers for this trek. They are worth commending for their patience and invaluable sacrifice for Yobz the whole team. Salute!
Once we got to the top of Mt. Pagangon, we took a quick break and just enjoyed the view. Sitting beside me is my sister, Anna. 🙂
Our guide, Manong Nick then led us to his humble abode and offered sweet potatoes before proceeding with our trek.
To get to the hidden cave, we had to go down to the other side of the mountain…
through a rough, rocky terrain which finally then leads to…
THE CAVE! It was quietly tucked right in the middle of the jungle covered in moss, low-hanging vines and other wild vegetation. According to my fellow trekkers, the cave was reeking of dank odor like that of sulfur. But the funny thing is I didn’t notice it. I guess growing up near a dump site has desensitized me to most offensive smells.
As my eyes were slowly adjusting to the darkness of the cave, I felt the damp air cool my body.
Going inside the cave was one slippery journey. Caution should be exercised especially since some rocks may shift when stepped on.
When we entered the first chamber, I was surprised to find it spacious inside with its ceiling reaching to about 30 feet in height. The cave floor was soft and huge stalactites decorate its roof.
Unfortunately, some of the cave walls were not spared from the acts of boorish visitors. I hope locals would be taught to preserve the natural beauty of this cave and penalize anyone who vandalizes the cave. Nothing should be left but footprints and nothing should be taken but pictures.
To go to the next chambers, one must stoop down and duck walk through a narrow opening.
Compared to the first chamber, we felt a little cramped inside here. No light passes through at this point and several bats clung on the ceiling of the cave. But as soon as our lights flashed upon them, they woke from their sleep and swooped down towards us as a greeting. To climb up to the entrance of the next chamber, we carefully trudged through a blanket of thick mud. But it was only later on that we realized that it was actually inches and inches of bat dung and urine that accumulated throughout the ages when we touched the slimy cave walls.
We weren’t able to fully explore the cave though as we didn’t have enough time to do so. But this adventure was filled with fun and amazement.
Here are my tips for trekking to Mt. Pagangon and spelunking in Hindang Cave:
1. Bring lots of water and enough food.
2. Wear appropriate clothing. Rash guards are highly recommended as well as leggings and proper trekking footwear.
3. Wear a cap or bring an umbrella. You don’t want bat excretions landing on top of your head.
4. Bring wet wipes and rubbing alcohol to avoid possible infections caused by bat droppings.
5. Bring a flashlight.
Some photos belong to Yobz Tolentino, Porsche Carreon, Jeffrey Wong, and Bobby Timonera.
Pugaan is a place that is all too familiar to me, yet vague and unrecognizable at the same time. It has probably been about two long decades since the last time I went there.
Having spent a chunk of my childhood somewhere in the hinterlands of Pugaan, I felt a strong sense of nostalgia as my friends and I met up 7 in the morning at Pugaan Gym, the starting point of our trek. Tito Bobby Timonera, a photojournalist and barefoot runner together with Mico Falame, an experienced climber were our human compasses for this challenging trek.
We started our trek by walking about 3 kilometers uphill then we took a turn right and went straight through a cornfield.
Shortly after passing through a few streams, we saw a chute waterfall with a cavity beneath.
After that short photo op, we went back through the cornfield again…
…but thence took a different route.
Here’s another waterfall and it’s a cutey!
Right beside it is a hollow opening with more than enough space to fit me inside.
By the way, I highly recommend wearing a rash guard during treks to avoid sunburn and, well, rashes caused in contact with certain plants.
Wearing of appropriate footwear is a must to avoid slipping on wet surfaces.
Another find is a horsetail waterfall with a concealed passageway leading up to a grass field. Although there is an easier route, we just had to go through it because… bragging rights. 😉
As I was firmly gripping my hands on the cold, wet rocks and slowly inching my way up, I had flashbacks of my climbing drills back in college. I never thought I’d be able to put those skills I learned during PE class into good use. Glad to be wrong.
Brows still on fleek after the climb. YAS.
Aside from walking, there was a lot of climbing…
ninjutsu…
and rappelling (another skill I learned back in college) involved during this trek.
We’ve seen so many falls, many of them unnamed, that we have lost count after the 20th waterfall.
Me sitting atop of a waterfall because I live dangerously like that.
Called the Secret Falls, this waterfall is neatly tucked behind some shrubbery.
It has a pool that is deep enough for jumping and diving.
Posing for a photo with Porsche, a fellow blogger from Iligan, before climbing a waterfall. Yes, you read that right!
And just before I reached the top of the waterfall, I slipped and literally held on for my dear life as I was slowly falling down. Yobz, who was probably 5 feet away from Porsche, suddenly found his way up the waterfall to keep me from falling any further. How he managed to do that is still one of the biggest mysteries in the planet.
This was him after his adrenaline rush. Probably the funniest thing that happened during the trek. Poor Yobbie Bear. Haha!
According to Tito Bobby, this rock face was once a waterfall and we were supposed to climb over it. But since the waterfall dried up due to El Niño, we took a different route.
As we headed our way back to Pugaan Gym, we passed by a small vegetable farm…
and this big tree (behind us is Mount Agad-agad).
On our last few kilometers, we stopped by a small store for a quick break and it was there when we realized that we wanted to walk no more. So we hired two habal-habaldrivers(motorcycle taxis if you will) and divided into two groups of four. Each group crammed into a motorcycle barely big enough to accommodate everyone including the driver.
Overloading is illegal and dangerous yet a very common occurrence in the Philippines. The ride was fun but the novelty of it started to wear off about 5 minutes in when my back started to hurt. I do not advise anyone to do what we did.
Despite the minor misfortunes, overall, I had a fantastic experience! Pugaan used to be my playground when I was little. But for this adventure, it was my battlefield. So proud to say that I survived the 15-kilometer trek and I did things I never thought I could do. That’s the thing about the impossible… You’ll never know it can be done unless you give it a try.
We have a video! Please check it out after the photo dump 😀
TEAM KATKAT
L to R: Tito Bobby Timonera, Elijah Dagaerag, Jeffrey Wong, Porsche Carreon, Mico Falame, Boknoy, Yobz and me.
Bandoja, formerly known as Lupa-an, is a barangay in Tibiao rich in clay reserves. Here are where pots and bricks are made in the province of Antique.
Pottery is both an art and a science. It’s something I’ve always wanted to try and I am lucky enough to have experienced it. It’s actually very technical and entails an arduous process.
For a lump of clay to be molded into a pot, there must be enough water added to make it workable before placing it on the center of a spinning platform called the wheel.
The damp clay is then kneaded and shaped with the turning of the wheel in a steady pace, adding water whenever needed to keep the clay soft and pliable. Using a certain amount of pressure, the middle of the clay should be carefully pressed all the way down to the bottom to form an opening.
Then working it from the inside out, with the constant turning of the wheel, it is shaped to the desired form with its rough sides smoothed. (Hi Sir Alex!)
When it’s done, the clay pot is removed from the wheel by sliding a tightly stretched string through the base of the pot.
Here are our finished pots! Well, sort of.
They first need to be air-dried for a number of weeks till they become bone dry.
Then they will be fired in this thermally insulated chamber called the kiln.
Tada! This is how they look like when they’re done. 🙂
If you wanna do something different and challenging, I highly recommend you try pottery here in Tibiao, Antique. Special thanks to the potters of Tibiao and Sir Alex Española for taking us here!
