Siargao Travel Guide

Somewhere in the northeastern coast of Mindanao is a postcard perfect island with pristine beaches, emerald palm trees and idyllic sunsets called Siargao. Its yearlong ferocious waves earned Philippines a spot on the surfing map of the world.

Although the island maintains a sleepy atmosphere, there are plenty of fun things to do with the friendly locals in the island besides surfing. The whole island is a playground, your imagination is the limit.

HOW TO GET THERE BY AIR

Cebu to Siargao
As of this posting, Cebu Pacific is the only airline that offers commercial flights to Siargao (Sayak Airport).

You can fly directly from Cebu to Siargao on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays.

Manila/Cebu to Surigao City
An alternative route would be to fly to Surigao City (Surigao Airport) and then take a ferry to Siargao. Just make sure not to miss the last ferry scheduled departing from Surigao City. Flights from Manila to Surigao City with Philippine Airlines and flights from Cebu to Surigao City with Cebu Pacific are available daily.

Keep in mind that the regular baggage allowance is 15 kilos only. If you’re bringing a surfboard, you will have to shell out for the sports equipment handling fee. Actual rate will be indicated on the website.

HOW TO GET THERE BY SEA

Cebu to Surigao City
Another way to go to Siargao is to travel from Cebu to Surigao City by boat with Cokaliong. For schedules and rates, you can check here.

Surigao City to Dapa, Siargao

From Surigao City, catch a boat that will take you to Dapa, Siargao.

Surigao City to Dapa, Siargao Ferry Schedules
MV LQP Express – 5:30 AM, Daily
MV Dapa Express II – 5:30 AM, Daily
MV Dapa Express – 10:00 AM, Daily
Fortune Angel – 11:45 AM, Daily
RORO Montenegro Shipping Lines – 12:00 NN, Daily

The fare costs 250 PHP.

Travel time from Surigao City to Dapa, Siargao is 2 hours.
For more details on ferry schedules and rates, click here.

HOW TO GET THERE BY LAND

Bus transfers from any point in Mindanao via Butuan to Surigao City are available 24/7.

Travel Time from Iligan to Surigao City
Total hours on the road would be about 15 hours if you include stopovers, transfers and waiting time. Make sure to plan your trip carefully so you won’t go hungry, miss the last scheduled ferry or, worse, both.

For Morning Commuters from Iligan
Best departure time is 5:00 AM.
Con: You will have to stay for a night at Surigao City. I recommend Le Chard Place Bed and Breakfast.
Pro: You can recuperate from the grueling land trip and save some energy for an early trip to Siargao the next day.

Tip: Have your breakfast at Agora Terminal. I suggest to get yourself a takeaway lunch there to eat during transit to save time, money and energy.

For Evening Commuters from Iligan
Best departure time is 4:00 PM.
Pro: You can sleep off the grueling land trip and save money by not spending a night in Surigao City.
Con: Transferring from one terminal to the next will interrupt your sleep.

Tip: Have your dinner at Agora Terminal. You can have breakfast upon arrival at Siargao.

Iligan to Bulua Bus Terminal, CDO
Bus Fare – 100 PHP
Travel time – 2 hours

Bulua Bus Terminal, CDO to Agora Bus Terminal, CDO
Jeepney Fare – 12 PHP
Travel time – 15 minutes

Agora Bus Terminal, CDO to Butuan
Bus Fare – 350 PHP
Travel time – 6 hours

Butuan to Surigao City
Bus Fare – 225 PHP
Travel time – 4 hours

Upon arrival in Surigao City, take a ferry to Dapa, Siargao (catch the first ferry if you can) and thence take a motor taxi to General Luna, Siargao.

Dapa, Siargao to General Luna, Siargao
Trike Fare – 200 PHP
Travel time – 30 minutes

WHERE TO STAY
Popular choices include Buddha’s Surf Camp, La Luna Island Resort and Paglaom Hostel. For more options and details, you can check this blog here.

Whether you’re a high class tourist, a budget-minded traveler or a glampacker like me, you will always find a place in Siargao that will suit your needs.

There are many easy-to-use and secure websites that can help you choose your accommodation based on your personal preferences and budget.

Agoda
I’ve booked hotels through Agoda a couple of times and I love it. They have a great network of hotels to choose from at competitive prices.

AirBNB
I’ve also booked through AirBNB and this is a personal favorite. AirBNB offers the most unique travel experiences that can perfectly suit your budget and needs.

Booking, Trivago & Hostelworld
I personally haven’t used Booking, Trivago and Hostelworld before but they also have good deals and a wide selection of hotels to choose from.

Most travelers in Siargao stay for at least couple of weeks (some up to several months) so you may have a hard time booking as walk-in guest. My tip is to book your accommodation in advance.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

Surf at Jacking Horse, Secret Spot or Cloud 9
Take a dip at Magpupungko Tide Pools
Go island hopping
Do extreme sports such as freediving, longboarding, spearfishing, etc.
Join a Drunken Carabao race
Chill at Pagoda Bar on Mondays
Party at Jungle Disco Bar on Fridays

WHERE TO EAT
Kermit Surf Resort and Camp Siargao
Shaka Siargao
Mama’s Grill
Cafe Loka
Lux Siargao Boutique Resort & Sushi Bar
Pleasure Point Cafe
Aventino’s Pizza

Hindang Part 2: Waterfalling at Hindang Falls

image

After our spelunking adventure at Hindang Cave, we planned to see Hindang Falls. But first, we went back to Manong Nick’s hut for an alfresco lunch.

image

Shortly, Ate She was hacking some coconuts for us to replace our lost electrolytes.

image

And out of nowhere, heavy drops suddenly pelted down from the sky, forcing us to huddle beneath banana trees that provided little shelter from the rain.

image

What we thought was going to be an effortless downhill hike turned out to be a challenging one because of the heavy downpour.

image

We really took our time going down the slippery slope and avoided the muddy tracks as much as possible.

image

In tricky areas, some were forced to go down on all fours…

image

some five – if you count the butt! In a situation such as this, a trekking pole would definitely come in handy. But if that’s unavailable, just improvise! Pick up any sturdy wooden stick and you’re good to go!

image

As we were retracing our steps, we saw one of the streams that we spotted earlier. We then took turns washing ourselves to rid of all the dirt, mud and bat droppings covering our bodies. It felt like such a treat!

image

The intermittent rain stopped for a while and we found ourselves back at the grassy field once again. All of us picked our own spot to sit and relax for a much-needed break.

image

Someone looks like he found the best spot. Hehe 🙂

image

Before going to Hindang Falls, we had marang for a quick snack. If you haven’t heard of it before, this fruit is native to the southern part of the Philippines and is closely related to jackfruit.

image

The walk to the first and second tier of Hindang Falls was unbelievably short and easy.

image
image
image

I couldn’t say the same thing for the third tier, however.

Some opted to remain at this spot and enjoyed the view. But some (I, myself included), dared to take on the challenge.

image

With no safety gear, not even a harness, we climbed up a very steep, slippery slope where very few people dared to go even on a good day.

image

We grabbed and gripped on to whatever we can just to see the sequestered tier. One false move and we may never see the light of day again. This climb is probably the riskiest thing I’ve done to date.

image

YEY! Finally… right in front of our eyes. The majestic third tier of Hindang Falls, one of Iligan’s hidden wonders, standing right behind a cloak of lush green foliage.

image

Its cool, refreshing waters give a good hydromassage to weary bodies.

image

For those of us who dared to do the death-defying stunt, the spectacular view and therapeutic shower was the best way to wrap up the entire adventure.

Here are my tips for a safe, fun and ethical trek to Hindang Falls:

1. Never go without a local as a guide.
2. Have a buddy system and never separate from your group.
3. Wearing of appropriate apparel is a must. Invest in proper trekking footwear. I cannot stress this enough.
4. Leave nothing but footprints and take nothing but photos. This is also worth mentioning again and again.
5. Bring proper equipment and wear safety gear. Don’t do what we did.
6. Assess your physical condition and climbing ability before going uphill especially for the third waterfall tier. It is for experienced trekkers and climbers only.
7. Check the weather forecast. Note that rain makes moderately easy treks difficult.
8. Give the guide a generous tip.

image

A quick shoutout to Manong Nick for being a patient, kind and generous guide. Look for him when in Hindang. He’s awesome!

We actually have a video of our Hindang adventure, check it out!

You can also read about our Hindang Falls Experience from these lovely people:
Bobby Timonera on MINDANEWS
Porsche on THEYANGONE 
Yobz on AYOSAOI

Hindang Part 1: Spelunking at Hindang Cave, Iligan

It was towards the end of September that our trekking team once again organized an epic adventure somewhere in the hinterlands of Iligan. This time it was in Barangay Hindang where there lies a cave hidden in dense jungles and a less visited three tier waterfall which I will talk about in a different post.

image

Hindang is a long drive away from the city so we met with fellow adventure seekers before 6 in the morning in front of Shoppe24 Tibanga while Tito Bobby Timonera, barefoot runner extraordinaire and Elijah Dagaerag, experienced mountaineer were already on their way there on foot –  that’s 14 kilometers from the highway!

image

It was about 7 A.M. when Mico Falame, mountain climbing pro arrived in his panoramic van with three of his friends.

image

Then off we went! We have a footage of the entire ride here.

image

Barangay Hindang is approximately 20 kilometers away from the city proper and is accessible by both private and public utility vehicles through Barangay Kiwalan and Kabacsanan. Granexport Manufacturing Corporation, simply known as Granex, is the landmark to look for. Should you choose to go there by jeepney or habal-habal, brace yourself for some uncomfortable, bumpy ride. Here is a map for directions on how to get there.

image
image

After a scenic hour and a half uphill drive through long winding roads (we got a little lost at some point), we finally made it at the Hindang proper and stopped at a basketball court. Tito Bobby and Elijah were already there waiting for us!

image

Upon our arrival, we went inside Delatado Store…

image

signed on their visitor log book, paid a fee of 25 pesos each…

image

and started walking to Mt. Pagangon (where the cave is located) from there.

image

The climb to Mt. Pagangon seemed a lot less challenging than our trek in Pugaan albeit it does require more stamina.

As we went uphill…

image

we passed through a grassy field…

image

a bamboo forest…

image

and a few streams.

image

There were a lot of interesting sights and sounds along the way that you only get to see and hear in nature. We all were our jovial selves…

image

up until this point. With our game faces on, we braved this side of the mountain and slowly made our way up the slope which has a vertical inclination of about 50 to 70 degrees.

image

Teamwork is essential for any trek to become successful.

image

And behind every successful trek are sweepers.

Sweepers are on the tail end of the trek and they make sure nothing and no one gets left behind. Elijah, who we fondly call Elai (pictured on the left), and Lope (right) were our designated sweepers for this trek. They are worth commending for their patience and invaluable sacrifice for Yobz the whole team. Salute!

image

Once we got to the top of Mt. Pagangon, we took a quick break and just enjoyed the view. Sitting beside me is my sister, Anna. 🙂

image

Our guide, Manong Nick then led us to his humble abode and offered sweet potatoes before proceeding with our trek.

image

To get to the hidden cave, we had to go down to the other side of the mountain…

image

through a rough, rocky terrain which finally then leads to…

image

THE CAVE! It was quietly tucked right in the middle of the jungle covered in moss, low-hanging vines and other wild vegetation. According to my fellow trekkers, the cave was reeking of dank odor like that of sulfur. But the funny thing is I didn’t notice it. I guess growing up near a dump site has desensitized me to most offensive smells.

image

As my eyes were slowly adjusting to the darkness of the cave, I felt the damp air cool my body.

Going inside the cave was one slippery journey. Caution should be exercised especially since some rocks may shift when stepped on.

image

When we entered the first chamber, I was surprised to find it spacious inside with its ceiling reaching to about 30 feet in height. The cave floor was soft and huge stalactites decorate its roof.

image

Unfortunately, some of the cave walls were not spared from the acts of boorish visitors. I hope locals would be taught to preserve the natural beauty of this cave and penalize anyone who vandalizes the cave. Nothing should be left but footprints and nothing should be taken but pictures.

image

To go to the next chambers, one must stoop down and duck walk through a narrow opening.

image

Compared to the first chamber, we felt a little cramped inside here. No light passes through at this point and several bats clung on the ceiling of the cave. But as soon as our lights flashed upon them, they woke from their sleep and swooped down towards us as a greeting. To climb up to the entrance of the next chamber, we carefully trudged through a blanket of thick mud. But it was only later on that we realized that it was actually inches and inches of bat dung and urine that accumulated throughout the ages when we touched the slimy cave walls.

image

We weren’t able to fully explore the cave though as we didn’t have enough time to do so. But this adventure was filled with fun and amazement.

Here are my tips for trekking to Mt. Pagangon and spelunking in Hindang Cave:

1. Bring lots of water and enough food.
2. Wear appropriate clothing. Rash guards are highly recommended as well as leggings and proper trekking footwear.
3. Wear a cap or bring an umbrella. You don’t want bat excretions landing on top of your head.
4. Bring wet wipes and rubbing alcohol to avoid possible infections caused by bat droppings.
5. Bring a flashlight.

Some photos belong to Yobz Tolentino, Porsche Carreon, Jeffrey Wong, and Bobby Timonera.

Tedts’ Diner 2.0

image

Two months ago, Tedts’ Diner opened their second branch at PYB Residences, corner of Zamora and Lluch Streets…

image

…and we were one of the first ones to try everything! Just kidding. Not everything.

image

We had the place all to ourselves for a few minutes…

image

till all these little sugar monsters quickly filled up the space. Everybody wants a piece of their goodies. Or a box.

image

We had Lemon Raspberry and Rainbow Cake. Hello diebeetus.

image

Here’s a piece of Rainbow Cake looking all pretty…

image

only to be totally annihilated a few seconds later. I actually took friends with me to try some of Tedts’ desserts.

image

Needless to say, they love it! 🙂

image

Every day is cheat day at Tedts’ Diner. So don’t be shy to indulge your sweet cravings here every once in awhile. Sugar ecstasy starts at 25 PHP only.

Some photos grabbed from Tedts’ Diner.

Circa 1850 Eatery

Those who know me well enough know that it has been quite awhile since I’ve been consciously trying to eat healthier. But to be honest, wholesome eating is very hard to commit to especially from where I’m at. Not only are there very limited whole food choices here, there isn’t really any awareness of the environmental, economic and public health issues of today’s industrial food system.

image

When I heard about Circa 1850 Eatery, a restaurant that promotes sustainable local produce and fair trade lifestyle, my heart fluttered and I knew I had to give them a go.

Only a few blocks away from Ayala Centrio Mall, they are located at the ground floor of Tune Hotel, CM Recto, Cagayan de Oro City.

image

While I could go on about how lovely the interiors are (I have a soft spot for rustic industrial designs), Circa 1850 Eatery is more than just another picturesque restaurant.

image

They serve only the freshest, organic farm-to-table ingredients that are mainly sourced from local farmers.

image

I love how they chose to have an open-kitchen so curious diners, like myself, can have a look at how their dishes are put together.

image

Uni and Shrimp Pasta

This is one of their best sellers. If you’re a seafood pasta lover like I am, you’re going to like this one! For those who don’t know what “uni” is, it’s just Japanese for “sea urchin”.

image

Medium-rare Sirloin Steak Frites

Served in a cast iron skillet, the steak came with an assortment of veggies, a cup of rice and probably the best gravy ever.

image

Please take a moment to appreciate the beauty that is the steak. It was juicy and satisfying. I have to admit though, it was a little bit tough. But to be fair, sirloin is less tender in general compared to other cuts.

image

Roasted Bone Marrow 

This is another one of their best sellers and I totally understand why. It was so incredibly rich and delicious my eyes nearly popped out. This sinful strip of fat should come with a warning label.

image

Here at Circa 1850 Eatery, you definitely get what you pay for: Quality food, great service. Can’t wait to go back there and try more of their food!

I call on each and every one of you to patronize them because when you dine there, you are supporting local farmers, reducing environmental impact, strengthening the economic base of the community and, most importantly, spreading awareness of wholesome eating and slow food movement. I guarantee you’ll walk out of their restaurant with a full stomach and a happy heart.

Open hours: 7:00am – 2:00pm, 5:30pm – 10:30pm
Price Range: 300~500 PHP

Wild Chili

image

Wild Chili is a newly-opened Tex-Mex restaurant at The Strip and is one of the latest gastronomic destinations in town. 

image

Enriched with Mexican influences, the interior is bathed in warm, vibrant colors reminiscent of the tropical climate in Mehiko.

image

More than just a restaurant, they also have a full bar where you can enjoy a few drinks.

image

It’s nom time. But first, lemme take an usie

image

Arriba! Arriba!

image

Mexican Buffalo Wings with Jalapeno-Cilantro Dip

In Iligan, you can’t get Buffalo wings this good anywhere. The chicken was tender, juicy, had just the right amount of heat to it and, of course, delicious. The dip was wonderful and went perfectly with the chicken.

This goes well with beer… and rice too! 😀

image

Jalapeno Quesadillas

For the vegetarians who love to have a bit of kick, this is perfect. Not saying that carnivores won’t like this too. Every bite was a burst of creamy, cheesy goodness.

image

Carne Burrito

Filled with Mexican rice, refried beans, beef tenderloin strips, salsa and cheese, this tasty burrito is a whole meal in itself. Certainly bound to please. 

If you’re feeling for some Mexican fusion cuisine in Iligan, Wild Chili is the only place to go. Good service, great food at affordable prices (100~200 PHP).

Beer-battered Pizza at Good Fellas

Good Fellas is a new pizzeria in CDO that serves freshly baked artisan beer-battered pizza.

My boyfriend and I never had beer-battered pizza before so I knew we had to try it. A two-hour bus ride later…

image

Stepping in, I immediately noticed the clean, simple interior with a warm pop of color.

image

From the exposed brick wall down to the furnishing, it just screams contemporary industrial chic with a touch of rustic charm – much to the delight of my inner hipster.

image

Everything here is just Instagram-worthy so there’s absolutely no shame if you want to whip out your camera phones and snap photos away. 

image

When we were there, the place looked a little vacant. It was a rainy afternoon after all. Who wants to brave the rain for just pizza right?

image

But a few minutes later, I was instantly proven wrong. At that moment, I knew we went to the right place and something good was already waiting for us.

image

Oh, hi! Just a little sneaky OOTD right here. Couldn’t resist posting this photo. Hehe 🙂

image

Pizza time!

image

We got the Big Joe, also known as the Godfather of all Pizzas. Beer-battered dough topped with cheese and a variety of meat – pepperoni, bacon, sausage, ham and beef. 

Fresh, crispy and bursting with flavor. It was love at first bite. It is a little bit greasy though. But if you’re like me who doesn’t give a damn about that, you’ll definitely love this one! I can’t help but feel sorry for myself that I’m not having it right now. Can’t wait to go back and try more of their pizzas!

Good Fellas is located at Pabayo and Chavez Streets just right above Sweet Leaf Bubble Tea Cafe.

Davao-Gensan Trip Part 15: Bon Appetit La Boutique

It’s Day Five and we’re back in Davao once again.

In my quest to explore new gustatory territories, I already had my radar on Bon Appetit La Boutique weeks before our trip. They serve authentic French cuisine in a public square located at Plaza del Carmen, Loyola Street.

I never had a legit French meal in my life so I figured it would be a good place to start.

image

Sophisticated, elegant and charming, the interior of Bon Appetit La Boutique is a beautiful reflection of France. It is a perfect setting for romantic dinner dates, anniversaries and other special occasions.

Displayed on their walls are artworks and some French products for sale.

image

Sketches

image

Foie Gras
Fat Duck Liver

image

Canned French Delicacies

image

Fragrance Pillows

image

Fragrant soaps in Pomme (apple), Lavande (lavender) and Cannelle Orange (cinnamon orange) scents.

image

You know they’re the real deal because the menu is written in French. It’s okay, I can’t read French too. Hehe 🙂

Okay, nuff jabbering. Food. Now.

image

Baguette et Tapenade 
Homemade French Baguette with Tapenade

Made with ingredients imported from France, this baguette can’t get anymore authentic in taste. 

I’m very picky and hard to please when it comes to bread. You can ask my boyfriend. So when I say that I actually enjoyed eating this means a whole lot. 

The baguette didn’t have that awful starchy aftertaste that breads made in local bakeries here in the Philippines tend to have.

image

Upon closer inspection, you can tell that the baguette has a light and airy texture with a thin, crispy golden crust.

Tapenade was something I never heard of before. It is a gourmet condiment usually used as spread for bread and is made out of black olives blended with herbs and olive oil until it forms into a thick paste. Its robust and distinct taste adds a unique flavor to the baguette. 

The baguette and tapenade were actually on the house. Yey for free bread basket!

imageCrêpe Sarrasin, Oeuf, Jambon et Gruyère
Buckwheat Crepe with Fried Egg, Ham & Gruyère Cheese

While normal people would have this for breakfast or brunch, we had it as an appetizer simply because we can (fit lotsa food in our bellies). 🙂

Folded inside the crepe is a sunny-side up egg with slices of ham and melted Gruyère cheese.

Gruyère cheese has a rich, creamy texture and tastes sweet and salty at the same time. There is really nothing like it.

This is something I can have everyday! Light, savory and decadent. That’s what it is. It’s one of those things you have to try!

And yes, the salad did go very well with it too.

image

More free hot bread. They won’t stop serving free bread until you get to the main course or until you say so. 

image

Penne Sauce Roquefort et Noix
Penne Pasta with Roquefort Cheese & Walnut Sauce

Roquefort is a type of blue cheese characterized by its blue veins of (edible) mold. It has a strong characteristic odor and taste that may put a lot of people off. But if you happen to like blue cheese, you will surely enjoy this dish like we did!

Served al dente, the penne was pasta perfection. 

image

Steak de Gindara Grillé Sauce Beurre Blanc
Grilled Butterfish with White Butter Sauce and Potato Gratin

Tender and moist, the grilled butterfish was a delight to eat. The beurre blanc sauce was rich and buttery and it helped elevate this seemingly simple dish.

And the potato gratin was AHMEYZING. I could eat a casserole of that all by myself. It’s rich, creamy and tender. It’s so good that I’d rather have it over pizza any day! And yes, I still can’t believe I actually said that.

Bon Appetit La Boutique is a restaurant one should not pass up. I will not hesitate to recommend this place. Warm service, outstanding meals and fantastic dining experience.

Open Mondays thru Saturdays, 11AM to 11PM. Prices usually range between 300 and 500 pesos.

Davao-Gensan Trip Part 14: Little Kitchen Restaurant

Still unbelievably full from lunch, we opted for a light supper…

image

Little Kitchen Restaurant is a popular snack house in Gensan which is owned and managed by a doctor.

Originally built to cater the doctor’s patients and other people within the vicinity, Little Kitchen Restaurant unexpectedly turned out into a flourishing food business.

image

With the cozy atmosphere, it’s too easy to feel at home here. The wait staff are accommodating and the service is prompt.

image

For appetizers, we got complimentary garlic butter toasts. Loves it! Who doesn’t love free food? Hehe 🙂

image

For our supper, we had Shrimp Scampi Pizza. It had a crispy crust topped with olives, mushrooms, shrimp and cheese. This is one of their best sellers.

I know the pizza sounds really good on paper but it was a little too bland for my taste. It was a huge letdown for me because I really wanted to like it. Just everyone else does. 

But despite being disappointed, I’d still like to go back there and sample other of their food items. I’m sure I’ll find something I’d love.

Little Kitchen Restaurant is located at Quirino Avenue, next to Calderon Clinic.